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  • Writer's pictureBenedit Akemba

Luxury Fashion and the Appropriation of African Tribal Designs





Luxury fashion thrives on exclusivity and creativity, constantly searching for new design elements to captivate audiences. However, this pursuit of the "new" has occasionally resulted in unethical practices, particularly when it comes to extensively taking from African tribal designs. African tribal designs hold deep cultural significance, as they are rooted in centuries of old traditions and represent the identity and heritage of the communities that create them.


When luxury brands appropriate these designs without proper recognition or compensation, they strip away their cultural context, reducing them to mere trends. This reinforces negative stereotypes and perpetuates power imbalances in the industry.


The Maasai of Kenya and Tanzania embody one of the most powerful images of tribes in Africa – but it’s an increasingly copied guise. Huge fashion brands around the world, for some time now, continue to exploit the Maasai’s iconic cultural brand in a bid to infuse a touch of exoticism to their products and increase sales.


The Maasai of Kenya and Tanzania embody one of the most powerful images of tribes in Africa – but it’s an increasingly copied guise. Huge fashion brands around the world, for some time now, continue to exploit the Maasai’s iconic cultural brand in a bid to infuse a touch of exoticism to their products and increase sales.





The most familiar example dates back to Louis Vuitton’s 2012 spring/summer men’s collection which featured hats, shirts and scarves inspired by the Maasai Shuka – a traditional African blanket cast in colourful shades of red and blue. Many of the Maasai live below the poverty line, but luxury brands continue to exploit their design heritage. They are not compensated for anything sold under these luxury brands' names, despite having helped them sell millions of dollars worldwide.


Consumers play a crucial role in promoting change.  By researching and seeking out brands committed to ethical sourcing and collaboration with African designers, advocates for more responsible practices.  Educating oneself about the cultural significance of African design elements empowers informed purchasing decisions.


It's important to recognise that African aesthetics are not monolithic.  African designers are constantly innovating, reinterpreting traditional elements. Brands partnering with these designers gain access to a wealth of creativity while maintaining attribution and respect for cultural heritage.





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